PARIS VINTAGE #15

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AUCTION SALE

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MONDAY, OCT. 26, 2026
, 7:30 p.m. (Paris time)


www.penelopesauction.com


EXHIBITION

Oct. 23–26, 2026


Event: contact@penelopesauction.com

PARIS VINTAGE #15 takes us from the golden age of haute couture to the bold innovations of ready-to-wear fashion. From exceptional designs to everyday clothing, a single story unfolds: the story of fashion, its inventions, its extravagances, and its eternal ability to reinvent itself.

A sumptuous haute couture evening ensemble designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, from the Spring 1948 collection, is one of the highlights of this auction. It combines a bronze-and-black striped satin jacket with a dress whose skirt, adorned with large tulips, creates a subtle flared effect. An almost architectural silhouette, playing on volumes, the richness of the fabrics, and the sensuality of the lines. Photographed by Horst P. Horst at the Louvre, in front of Toulouse-Lautrec’s *La Danseuse mauresque* by Toulouse-Lautrec, this design attests to Elsa Schiaparelli’s inventiveness and her ongoing dialogue with the arts.

Then Azzedine Alaïa, another genius of haute couture, features the iconic 1983 black openwork leather skirt photographed by Thierry Lopez, a 1986 denim ensemble with figure-hugging curves, and a 1997 embroidered jacket. These three creations showcase his unparalleled mastery of the body, cut, and proportions.

At Christian Dior, a haute couture dress from the Spring-Summer 1960 collection designed by Yves Mathieu-Saint-Laurent is displayed alongside several creations by Gianfranco Ferré from the wardrobe of a former model for the house. Also worth discovering are the evening gowns by John Galliano, which showcase the designer’s full theatrical flair and imagination.

Other gems: a “Mystère” cape by Jeanne Paquinfrom the Fall-Winter 1950–51 collection, and the silhouettes with bold shoulders by Claude Montana, and the designs by Corinne Cobson , and a collection of by Karl Lagerfeld for chic everyday wear.

Finally, the charming collection, sourced directly from the atelier of Jean Dessès takes us back to the intimate atmosphere of a 1950s fashion house. Coats, dresses, skirts, and ensembles bear witness to a level of craftsmanship whose legacy is now invaluable.

Welcome, dear Autumn!

Lot No. 164 SCHIAPARELLI HC – FALL-WINTER 1947:48 – EVENING ENSEMBLE, JACKET, DRESS CLOTHING Appraisal: 6,000–8,000 EUR
Lot No. 284 JOHN GALLIANO – FALL-WINTER 2006/07 – DRESS Appraisal: 2,000–3,000 EUR
Lot No. 126 CHRISTIAN DIOR HC X YVES MATHIEU-SAINT-LAURENT – SPRING-SUMMER 1960 – DRESS (CLOTHING) Appraisal: 1,000–1,500 EUR
Lot No. 104 CHRISTIAN DIOR X GIANFRANCO FERRÉ – FALL-WINTER 1992:93 – COAT, CLOTHING Appraisal: 700–900 EUR
Lot No. 134 CLAUDE MONTANA X GIBO – FALL-WINTER 1979:80 – DRESS, CLOTHING Appraisal: 500–800 EUR
Lot No. 9 ALAÏA – SPRING-SUMMER 1986 – OUTFIT, JACKET, PANTS CLOTHING Appraisal: 600–900 EUR
Lot No. 277 JUNIOR GAULTIER – CIRCA 1989 – DRESS Appraisal: 300–500 EUR
Lot No. 167 GIANNI VERSACE – FALL-WINTER 1982/83 – CAPE Appraisal: 300–500 EUR
Lot No. 268 JEANNE PAQUIN – FALL-WINTER 1950:51 – CAPE CLOTHING Appraisal: 200–300 EUR
Lot No. 264 JEAN DESSÈS – CIRCA 1950 – COAT CLOTHING Appraisal: 100–150 EUR
Lot No. 178 GUCCI X ALESSANDRO MICHELE – CIRCA 2020 – 1955 HORSEBIT - 500 – 800 EUR
Lot No. 199 HERMÈS – 2001 – BIRKIN 35 Appraisal: 10,000 – 12,000 EUR

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