John Galliano Auctions: Price and Appraisal of the Dior, Givenchy and Margiela Collections

I. Collector’s items: Visionary beginnings at auction (1984-1996)

John Galliano’s early years illustrate an exceptional creative path. He graduated from Central Saint Martins in 1984 with his collection “Les Incroyables”, inspired by the French Revolution. These eight organza outfits were immediately exhibited at Browns, where he worked as a salesman, with Diana Ross as his first customer.

He launched his brand with “Afghanistan Repudiates Western Ideals”, a bold fusion of traditional techniques and Eastern influences. His style is distinguished by its revolutionary bias cut, narrative theatricality and blend of historical inspiration with contemporary sensibility.

Despite financial difficulties, in 1987 he won the British Designer of the Year award while assisting tailor Tommy Nutter. In 1990, he moved to Paris thanks to Fayçal Amor of Plein Sud, who offered him a workspace. His first Paris show won over the critics, but not the buyers.

Her career really took off, thanks to the support of Anna Wintour and André Leon Talley of American Vogue, Isabella Blow, and Kate Moss, who modeled free of charge for her “Olivia the Filibuster” collection (1993). Madonna, photographed in pieces from “Princess Lucretia” (1994), gave her international exposure.

Today, these rare creations fetch impressive prices. A rare ‘Vautour’ kimono by John Galliano, from “The Ludic Game” collection (Autumn-Winter 1985-86), sold for €185,000 in 2023, while museums such as the MET( The Metropolitan Museum of Art), Victoria & Albert and FIT are including them in their permanent collections.

His appointment at Givenchy in 1995, on the recommendation of Anna Wintour, made history: the first Briton to head a French haute couture house. His mission: “to untangle Parisian haute couture, petrified by the rules of another era”. He adapted his flamboyant style to Parisian codes, introducing unstructured elements and innovative draping techniques that seduced Nicole Kidman and Björk.

A superb evening coat from Givenchy’s “Empress Josephine” haute couture collection by John Galliano, Fall-Winter 1996-1997, sold for €32,500 at auction, testifying to the historical importance of this transitional period, also recognized by the Metropolitan Museum and Palais Galliera.

These twelve seminal years illustrate the evolution of a visionary designer who rose from modest circumstances in London to conquer Paris, laying the foundations for a revolutionary aesthetic in contemporary fashion.

II. Premium Investment: The Golden Age of Galliano for Dior at Auction (1996-2011)

From 1996 to 2011, John Galliano enjoyed his creative heyday at Christian Dior, making an indelible mark on fashion history. It was during this period that he truly developed the creative DNA and distinctive style that revolutionized the house.

Galliano brilliantly reinterpreted Dior codes, notably the New Look, infusing them with a contemporary sensibility while blending multicultural historical influences with French haute couture tradition. His shows were transformed into grandiose spectacles, exploring themes as varied as tramps, ancient Egypt and Chinese opera.

Among his most iconic creations was the “Newspaper Print” collection for Spring/Summer 2000, with newspaper prints adorning dresses, bags and accessories. Among Galliano’s most iconic creations is the “Newspaper Print” collection (2000), inspired by Parisian homeless people using newspapers as insulation. This series became iconic thanks to its newspaper prints on various pieces and its exceptional level of hand-crafted detail. Its popularity was amplified when Sarah Jessica Parker wore it in “Sex and the City”. Other celebrities followed: Jennifer Lopez (2019), Kendall Jenner (2018) and Rita Ora with her grunge approach. In the Asian world, the influential Faye Wong chose a strapless dress from this collection for the cover of her album “Fable” (2000), paired with fishnet tights and a voluminous hairstyle to create a singular rock aesthetic. The level of artisanal detail in her creations was extraordinary, constantly pushing the technical boundaries of haute couture ateliers.

Celebrities quickly adopted his creations, creating unforgettable moments on the red carpet. Nicole Kidman graced the 69th Academy Awards in 1997 in a green embroidered Galliano gown for Dior, considered by Vogue to be one of the most iconic in Oscar history. Princess Diana wore the very first dress designed by Galliano for Dior in 1996 to an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum.

Designs from this period dominate today’s auction market, fetching impressive prices. Newspaper print” pieces are particularly sought-after, as a newspaper print slip dress from Christian Dior’s “Fly Girl” collection (Autumn-Winter 2000) by John Galliano sold for 54,000 USD at auction in New York 2024. Models worn by celebrities at major events generally sell for 30-40% more than similar designs without this history.

This period also forms the core of museum collections dedicated to Galliano. The “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams” exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2017 attracted over 700,000 visitors, while its extension at the Victoria & Albert Museum in 2019-2020 showcased several of his major pieces. The Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute also holds an extensive collection of his designs for Dior, regularly exhibited at themed events.

III. Market Trends: The Galliano Renaissance at Margiela Auctions (2014-2025)

After his forced exile following the 2011 scandal, John Galliano made a remarkable return to Maison Margiela in 2014. For a decade, he brilliantly fused the house’s deconstructivist aesthetic with his own sense of theatricality.

Unlike his Dior years, Galliano initially adopted Martin Margiela’s legendary discretion, letting his creations speak for themselves. He developed the “Artisanal” line as a laboratory for experimentation and launched “Glam Slam”, which married haute couture and streetwear influences.

His cultural impact has been phenomenal, notably with Rihanna at the 2018 Met Gala and Zendaya in 2024. His Artisanal spring-summer 2024 show remains his absolute masterpiece, transcending mere fashion.

On the business side, the results were impressive, with sales up 23% in 2023. The Tabi shoe became ubiquitous, propelling annual sales to over 400 million euros. Its influence has even revitalized interest in the whole Margiela legacy.

On December 11, 2024, Galliano announced his departure with this enigmatic phrase: ‘Rumors… Everyone wants to know, and everyone wants to dream. When the time is right, all will be revealed.’ This perfect conclusion to one of contemporary fashion’s finest redemption stories could mark the end of an era – and a unique opportunity for collectors. Discover on Penelopesauction.com Galliano’s exceptional pieces, whose value could soar at auction following this historic announcement. Get a free Appraisal of your Galliano creations or explore our exclusive catalog of investment pieces.

[ PÉNÉLOPE’S AUCTION HOUSE ]

📍LUXURY FASHION AUCTION HOUSE IN PARIS – FOUNDED BY @PENELOPE_BLANCKAERT, EXPERT FOR 20 YEARS.

Free and confidential Appraisal:
Email: contact@penelopesauction.com
www.penelopesauction.com